Kumar Bahukhandi
Kanika Goyal belongs to a generation of Indian designers whose brands have been geared toward the global market from the very beginning. Named to Forbes India’s 30 Under 30 list, she has seen her deconstructed blazers make their way to New York and London. This season, the founder of KGL presented her collection at Moscow Fashion Week for the first time. In Arc Echo, the brand’s signature irony, surrealism and bold use of colour meet the craftsmanship of her homeland.
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KGL (India) at Moscow Fashion Week (ph. Max Bykov)
Moscow has secured a prominent place on the international fashion show calendar alongside New York, London, Milan and Paris, becoming a capital of independent fashion on the global stage. Until October 1, the season’s program features more than 350 designers from India, Russia, China, the UK, Spain, Sri Lanka, the US, Kenya, Nicaragua and other countries.
KGL’s journey to Moscow was made possible by an exchange program between Moscow Fashion Week and the Fashion Design Council of India. The Council brings together the country’s leading designers, organises Lakmé Fashion Week and has shaped the way Indian fashion is seen abroad for more than a quarter of a century. KGL’s selection for Moscow offers a picture of India as the new generation knows it: urban, ironic and free from postcard clichés.
“Moscow Fashion Week has participants from all over the world so for starters it’s great exposure, – says Sunil Sethi, Chairman, Fashion Design Council of India. – Kanika is known for her deconstructed, gender agnostic clothing which appeals to a global consumer looking for separates that can elevate everyday dressing. We at the FDCI want to give designers with an offbeat trajectory a global opportunity. Moscow and FDCI partnership brings to the fore Indian craftsmanship at its best”.
Before Kanika Goyal launched KGL in 2014, she completed internships at Prada, Marchesa, Adidas Group and with Bibhu Mohapatra. It was at these institutions that she developed the technical precision in tailoring for which her brand is known. In 2023, Goyal remained the only designer representing India at New York Fashion Week for the third consecutive season. Entrepreneur magazine included her in its 35 Under 35 list, while KGL’s work has been featured in Vogue India and Vogue Italia. Grazia India named her Designer of the Year in 2023, and a year later Harper’s Bazaar India awarded her the title of Spotlight Designer of the Year. KGL has been worn by Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Deepika Padukone, and other celebrities.
Arc Echo grew out of Goyal’s interest in psychology. The collection explores how memory breaks down into fragments and how a person can recognise several versions of themselves at once. Another theme is the ability of dreams and déjà vu to reshape our understanding of personal identity. Mosaic knitwear with pop-art graphics, hybrid blazers, jacquard and vivid primary colours bring these fragments together in cohesive designs. Jackets and trousers are woven from narrow strips of reclaimed denim, dresses are assembled from unused fabric scraps, and embroidery is carried out by artisans in New Delhi. KGL sources surplus fabric from factories and incorporates materials from previous collections into new pieces, making circular production an integral part of the brand’s creative process.
At Moscow Fashion Week, Russian designers are showcasing the full breadth of their creativity, seamlessly bridging historical craftsmanship with experimental cuts and unexpected textiles. Designer Ianis Chamalidy showcased headpieces and bags woven from old film stock, transformed into textile thread, while crumpled surfaces and laser-treated fabrics give new pieces the appearance of objects with a long history. The Kartashova brand showcased dresses inspired by historical lingerie constructed in multiple layers, with uneven hems. The Moscow-based brand Edder has created pieces for city life and travel, built around architectural tailoring and premium European fabrics.
Following the show, Kanika Goyal joined the program at the BRICS+ Fashion Summit, a business forum for the fashion industries of fast-growing economies taking place from September 28 to 30 and bringing together hundreds of speakers from 65 countries. On September 28, Kanika Goyal joined other experts to discuss where the line lies between artificial intelligence as a working tool for designers and as their creative collaborator. “For me, it’s really about meeting people from markets we may not otherwise interact with designers, retailers, media and other creative businesses. I’m interested in conversations that can organically lead to new markets, collaborations and long-term relationships,” says Kanika Goyal.
